Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist: The 150-Point List Sydney Inspectors Actually Use

Every professional pre-purchase inspection in Sydney follows a version of the same checklist. We're publishing ours in full — 150 items grouped into 8 categories — because transparency wins buyer trust and because the DIY checklist is a great starting point even if you eventually book a professional inspection.

At the end, there's an honest section on the 22 items you physically cannot check yourself without professional equipment. Those are exactly what you're paying us for.

Before you start — the ground rules

• Inspect in bright, even daylight — not under fluorescent shed lights
• Insist on a cold engine — never accept a car that's been warmed up before you arrive
• Bring: torch, magnet (for filler detection), rag, tyre depth gauge, a friend who can drive behind you
• Allow 60–90 minutes minimum — a proper inspection cannot be rushed
• Never inspect a car in the rain — hides paint issues, hides fluid leaks, hides tyre wear pattern

Category 1: Exterior body & paint (22 points)

1. 1.Panel gaps: uniform width across every seam — bonnet to guard, guard to door, door to door, boot to quarter
2. 2.Bonnet and boot open with equal effort on both sides (unequal effort = warped or replaced hinges)
3. 3.Paint colour match under sunlight — walk around every panel with the sun at your back
4. 4.Orange peel texture consistent across panels (respray usually has different texture)
5. 5.Overspray on rubber trims, door seals, wheel wells or under the bonnet lip
6. 6.Bolts on inner guards, bonnet hinges, boot hinges — factory paint intact on bolt heads
7. 7.Windscreen: chips, cracks, delamination at edges, wiper scratches deeper than the tint
8. 8.All glass has matching manufacturer stamp (mismatched = one has been replaced)
9. 9.Headlights: clouding, moisture inside the housing, matching yellowing between L and R
10. 10.Tail-lights: cracks, water ingress, aftermarket replacements
11. 11.Door mirrors: fold and adjust both electrically, glass not cracked
12. 12.Door handles operate smoothly from both inside and outside on all doors
13. 13.Fuel filler flap opens, hinges intact, no rust in the recess
14. 14.Roof: dents from hail (Sydney is a hail city — always check)
15. 15.Sunroof: opens, closes, tilts, drain channels clear
16. 16.Ride height even at all four corners (uneven = suspension issue or wrong springs)
17. 17.Wheel arches: rust bubbling at the lip is a $2k+ repair on most cars
18. 18.Tow bar: presence indicates likely towing history — check further
19. 19.Aerial base seal intact, no water staining below on headliner
20. 20.Number plates: original, matching, not obscuring damage behind
21. 21.Underside of sills (rocker panels): rust from Sydney coastal air
22. 22.Rear bumper reinforcement bar visible from below — check for repair welds

Category 2: Interior & electronics (20 points)

1. 1.Odometer reading matches service book, matches recent rego papers, plausible for the car's age (12 – 20k km/year is normal)
2. 2.All warning lights illuminate on ignition then extinguish (missing bulb = someone hid a fault)
3. 3.Airbag light cycles correctly — stays on = fault stored or airbag deployed and not replaced
4. 4.Seat belt pre-tensioner date codes match the car's build year (mismatch = post-accident replacement)
5. 5.Driver's seat wear consistent with claimed km (heavy wear on 60k km car = odometer rollback suspicion)
6. 6.All electric seat motors work in all directions
7. 7.All windows go up and down front and rear, auto-up function works
8. 8.Central locking cycles all doors from key fob and interior switch
9. 9.Wipers front and rear on all speeds, washer jets aimed correctly, screen wash sprays
10. 10.Every dashboard button illuminates and functions
11. 11.Infotainment head unit boots, Bluetooth pairs, USB reads
12. 12.Reverse camera image clear, guidelines display, sensors beep progressively
13. 13.Cruise control engages and disengages, lane-keep steers back if the car has it
14. 14.Aircon output cold within 90 seconds at all vents (temperature-gauge test)
15. 15.Heater output warm at all vents
16. 16.Interior light domes, boot light, glovebox light all work
17. 17.Boot floor liner lifts — spare wheel present, jack + tools present, no hidden water damage
18. 18.Boot floor for signs of rear-end collision repair (uneven paint, weld splatter)
19. 19.Cabin smell: musty = leak or flood, sweet = coolant leak into heater core, fuel = leak
20. 20.Carpet under floormats dry — wet carpet indicates water leak, often from windscreen or sunroof

Category 3: Engine bay COLD (24 points)

This section only works on a cold engine. If the car is warm when you arrive, come back another day or walk away.

1. 1.Engine bay overall — clean but not showroom-clean (freshly detailed hides leaks)
2. 2.Oil dipstick: level between marks, honey colour on petrol / darker but not black on diesel
3. 3.Oil colour on the underside of the oil filler cap — no mayonnaise (mayo = head gasket leak into coolant)
4. 4.Coolant reservoir: correct colour for the make (mixing coolants damages seals), level between marks
5. 5.Coolant cap: no oil residue, no rust flakes
6. 6.Brake fluid: clear amber to light brown (black = never changed, absorbs water = corrodes ABS)
7. 7.Power steering fluid: correct colour, no burnt smell
8. 8.Windscreen washer fluid present (empty = neglect indicator)
9. 9.Auto trans fluid (where dipstick exists): bright pink/red = healthy, brown = burnt = expensive
10. 10.Cold start: cranks quickly and cleanly, catches first turn or within 2 seconds max
11. 11.Idle speed steadies within 30 seconds, no hunting, no misfire pop
12. 12.Exhaust smoke on cold start: brief white vapour normal (condensation), sustained white = coolant, blue = oil, black = fuel/turbo
13. 13.Belt condition: no cracks, no glazing, no missing chunks from ribs
14. 14.All hoses firm, no bulging, no cracking at bends, no oil staining suggesting historical leaks
15. 15.Radiator: no crushed fins from front-end damage, no coolant staining
16. 16.Intercooler pipes: no oil residue in the joints (oil in intercooler = worn turbo seals)
17. 17.Battery: terminals clean, no corrosion, hold-down bracket present, load-test if possible
18. 18.Alternator belt tension correct, no squeal on rev
19. 19.Air filter housing: filter clean or reasonable, no evidence of aftermarket pod filter (voids many warranties)
20. 20.Engine mounts visible from top: rubber intact, no fluid weep
21. 21.Exhaust manifold: no crack lines, no exhaust staining
22. 22.Turbo housing (turbo cars): no oil weep from turbo drain, no shaft play if you can wiggle the compressor wheel
23. 23.Firewall clean, no burn marks, no evidence of engine bay fire
24. 24.VIN on strut tower or firewall matches the compliance plate and the title document

Category 4: Tyres, wheels and brakes (12 points)

1. 1.All four tyres same brand and model (mismatched = replaced due to damage, not wear)
2. 2.Tread depth: minimum 3mm across the tyre for safe use, legal minimum is 1.5mm
3. 3.Wear pattern even across the tyre width (uneven = alignment or suspension fault)
4. 4.Cupping/scalloping on the tread surface = suspension bushing wear
5. 5.Date code (DOT stamp) on all tyres — no tyre should be more than 6 years old regardless of tread
6. 6.Wheel condition: no gutter rash covered by paint, no bent lips indicating pothole damage
7. 7.Spare tyre present, inflated, matching type
8. 8.Brake pad thickness visible through wheel spokes (min 3mm for safe use)
9. 9.Brake rotors: no lip on the edge (worn), no rust in the wear zone (car sat too long), no scoring lines
10. 10.Handbrake holds the car on a slope without slipping
11. 11.Wheel bearing check: jack up each wheel, rock at 12/6 and 3/9 — no play
12. 12.Suspension bounce test: press each corner down and release — one clean bounce = healthy dampers

Category 5: Underbody (18 points — hoist required for full check)

Most of this needs a hoist. On a private inspection you can crawl the car with a torch — you'll get maybe half the visibility.

1. 1.Chassis rails: no ripples, no fresh weld beads, no cut-and-replaced sections
2. 2.Cross members and subframes: no repair welds, no impact damage
3. 3.Sump: no oil weep at the gasket, no strike marks from grounding
4. 4.Gearbox and transfer case (4WDs): no leaks at seals, no drain plug damage
5. 5.Diff housing: no leaks at pinion seal or axle seals
6. 6.CV boots: intact, no split, no grease sling on the underside of the vehicle
7. 7.Suspension bushes: rubber not cracked or perished (Sydney UV kills these)
8. 8.Ball joints: no play — pry-bar test if possible
9. 9.Tie rod ends: no play at inner or outer joint
10. 10.Anti-roll bar links: no play, no bush wear
11. 11.Exhaust system: no rust perforation, no repair sections, catalytic converter intact
12. 12.DPF (diesel): no soot residue at joints, no aftermarket delete
13. 13.Fuel tank straps: no rust, no repair welds around tank
14. 14.Handbrake cables: no fray, no seizure at pivot
15. 15.Brake lines: no rust perforation, no aftermarket flexible sections
16. 16.ABS wiring: intact, connectors not corroded, sensor rings clean
17. 17.Underbody sealant: original factory sealant undamaged (fresh sealant = hides recent repair)
18. 18.Overall picture: is this car symmetrical left-to-right? Impact repair often shows as asymmetry

Category 6: Road test (14 points)

1. 1.Clutch bite (manual): consistent, no judder, no burning smell after hill starts
2. 2.First gear engagement (auto): smooth, no clunk from reverse to drive
3. 3.Torque converter lockup at cruise: smooth transition, no shudder
4. 4.All gears engage under acceleration without flare or slip (auto)
5. 5.Gearbox behaviour under hard downshift (kickdown): responsive, no delay
6. 6.Steering centred at straight line — no drift left or right on a flat road
7. 7.Steering wheel not vibrating at freeway speed (60 – 110 km/h)
8. 8.Brake pedal firm, no sponginess, no pulsation under moderate braking
9. 9.Emergency stop test (on empty road): even braking, no pulling, ABS engages cleanly
10. 10.Suspension over speed humps: no clunks, no metallic thuds
11. 11.Wind noise: acceptable and symmetrical (asymmetric = door seal or window seal damage)
12. 12.Engine hesitation under load — full-throttle test up a hill
13. 13.Cruise control holds speed accurately, disengages cleanly on brake
14. 14.Return to seller — engine bay check for any new leaks, listen for cooling fans running longer than expected

Category 7: OBD diagnostic scan (6 points — requires scan tool)

1. 1.All modules communicating (engine, trans, ABS, SRS, body, HVAC) — a missing module = fault or aftermarket
2. 2.Zero pending or stored fault codes across all modules (cleared codes will re-appear within 10 minutes if the fault is live)
3. 3.Engine runtime hours vs odometer reading — cross-check for rollback
4. 4.Total fuel consumed vs claimed km — sanity check (rough rule: 7L/100km × km should equal fuel consumed)
5. 5.DPF soot loading percentage (diesel) — under 40% is healthy, over 70% is imminent regeneration cycle
6. 6.Adaptation values on modern automatics — high values indicate mechatronic wear

Category 8: Documents & PPSR (14 points)

1. 1.PPSR pull ($2 at ppsr.gov.au) — no finance owing, not written off, not stolen
2. 2.Service NSW rego check — currently registered, expiry as claimed
3. 3.VIN on the compliance plate matches the dashboard VIN plate, matches the strut tower stamp, matches the title
4. 4.Engine number visible and matches original build (mismatch = engine swap, not always bad but must be disclosed)
5. 5.Full service book with dealer stamps or handwritten entries at each interval
6. 6.Service history intervals plausible (many small trips = harsher than long freeway km)
7. 7.Owner's manual present
8. 8.Both keys present (single key = $400 – $800 to replace on most modern cars)
9. 9.Spare wheel key present (wheel-lock nuts require it)
10. 10.Recent receipts for major work — tyres, brakes, service, timing belt
11. 11.Cross-check dealer service records via manufacturer app if available (Toyota, Mazda, Honda all have this)
12. 12.Registration certificate matches seller's name and address (mismatched = fake sale, curbstoner)
13. 13.Seller's ID matches the registration certificate (photograph both)
14. 14.Warranty status: manufacturer warranty balance remaining, extended warranty transferable?

The 22 checks you CAN'T do without professional equipment

Here's the honest gap in every DIY checklist — the checks that catch the most expensive defects, that no buyer can physically do in a private-seller driveway.

1. 1.Paint depth gauge readings at 12 factory reference points — the only way to catch a properly-done accident respray
2. 2.OBD-II diagnostic scan across all modules — reveals hidden faults the dashboard doesn't show
3. 3.Engine runtime hours from the ECU — the primary defence against odometer rollback
4. 4.Total fuel consumption from the ECU — secondary rollback defence
5. 5.DPF soot loading and regeneration history (diesels)
6. 6.Automatic transmission adaptation values (DSG, ZF 8-speed, Aisin) — mechatronic wear indicator
7. 7.Compression test on individual cylinders
8. 8.Leak-down test — separates worn rings from worn valves
9. 9.Borescope inspection of cylinder walls through the spark plug hole — catches carbon build-up and scoring
10. 10.EV battery State of Health test (requires manufacturer scan tool or AVILOO)
11. 11.Brake pad thickness measurement with a proper gauge (not eyeballed through wheel spokes)
12. 12.Rotor thickness measurement with a micrometer
13. 13.Suspension bush wear on the hoist with a pry bar
14. 14.Ball joint play test with the wheel lifted
15. 15.Wheel bearing rock test with the wheel lifted
16. 16.CV boot inspection from underneath — impossible from above
17. 17.Underbody chassis rail inspection — needs hoist and torch
18. 18.Full exhaust system inspection for repair welds
19. 19.Coolant chemistry test — reveals combustion gases (head gasket leak)
20. 20.Air conditioning system pressure test
21. 21.Battery load test with carbon-pile tester (not the fake voltmeters at auto shops)
22. 22.Alignment check on a proper rack

Common questions

Common questions

Can I download this as a printable PDF?

Yes — book any tier and we'll send you our printable version by email regardless of whether we do the inspection. It's the same document our inspectors carry on the job.

How long does it take to do this DIY?

A thorough DIY inspection with this checklist takes about 90 minutes if you know cars, longer if you don't. Our professional inspection is 60 – 120 minutes with equipment that adds another dimension.

If I do this checklist myself, do I still need a professional inspection?

For cars under $5,000, probably not. For anything over $10,000, the 22 checks in the previous section are worth the fee every time. For EVs and Euros, always.

What if the seller won't let me spend 90 minutes on the car?

That's a red flag on its own. Legitimate sellers know a proper inspection takes time. If they're pushing you to hurry, you're being sold a lemon.